Step-by-step installation diagram for sliding gates. Do-it-yourself sliding gates - how to do it right. Video: DIY sliding gates

Sliding gates are very popular nowadays, although in the recent past few could afford to install such a structure on their site due to the high cost of fittings and mechanisms. Now their cost is much lower and availability is higher, and a person with welding skills can make them with his own hands. The absence of upper and lower guides in sliding gates gives an advantage to the passage of vehicles of almost any size.

Sliding gates - operating principle and design

The principle of operation of the gate: the gate moves on two roller trolleys mounted on a concrete channel. The upper rollers provide protection against falls and distortion. In the closed state, to relieve the load on the roller supports, an end roller is installed on the guide, which slides into the lower catcher when the gate is closed. The upper catcher is installed to more reliably fix the gate in the closed state. The full size of the gate is 150% of the opening width, that is, if our opening is 4 m, then the full width of the gate leaf will be 6 m and, accordingly, the space for rollback should be at least 6 m. Perhaps this is the main disadvantage of this type of gate and if there is not enough place, it is worth considering other options.

Design drawing and diagram

Before making a gate, you need to decide on the dimensions of the future gate and make a drawing indicating these dimensions. The gate consists of a load-bearing frame and sheathing (internal frame). The frame is usually made from a rectangular profile pipe 60*30 mm and 2 mm thick, and you can also use pipes 60*40 mm or 50*50 mm if the required size is not available. For the internal frame, a profile pipe 40*20 or 30*20 is suitable, depending on what is available.

An example of a gate parts connection diagram:

Selection and calculation of materials with fittings

Let's take the drawing above as an example. For the frame we will use profiled pipes of rectangular section 60*30 with a thickness of 2 mm. We calculate the total length of the pipe for the frame based on the dimensions in the drawing 4200*2+1800+1865=12065 mm, the length of the hypotenuse of the triangular part is calculated using the formula c=√b 2 +a 2 √1800 2 +1865 2 =2591 mm, 12065+2591 =14656 mm. The total turned out to be 14.66 m in meters, this concerns the frame.

For the internal frame, take a 40*20 pipe and now calculate the total length 4200*3+1865*4= 2060 mm or 20.6 m. All dimensions are taken with a small cape.

The fittings are complex and unprofitable to make yourself and are usually purchased in stores of the appropriate profile. When choosing fittings, you need to know the approximate weight of the future structure in order to correctly select rollers that can easily withstand this weight.

Almost any material can be used for the internal lining of gates, but most often a profile sheet is used for these purposes, popularly called “corrugated sheeting”. Corrugated sheeting can be ordered in any size and color, it is quite lightweight and has an anti-corrosion coating. For the gate in our example, you will need a sheet measuring 7.833 m2. To fasten the corrugated sheeting, you will need self-tapping screws with a drill or rivets. For the mortgage, you need to purchase a piece of channel 16–20 cm wide and a length equal to half the gate opening, in our case at least 2 meters. Reinforcement for the foundation frame should be taken with a diameter of 12–16 mm and a length of 15. To mix concrete for the foundation, you will need cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1: 2.1: 3.9. For the foundation of the gate from the example, 0.5 m 3 of concrete is needed.

Necessary tool

• Welding machine, preferably semi-automatic.
• Grinder with cutting and grinding discs.
• Screwdriver or riveter.
• Hammer, tape measure, white marker.
• Concrete mixer, bayonet and shovel.
• Eye and hand protection.

Instructions for making and installing sliding gates with your own hands

First you need to cut the pipes according to the dimensions given in the drawing, using a grinder. Be sure to use protective equipment.

When we have finished cutting, we place the pipes on a horizontal surface or stands, as in the figure above, to form a frame according to the drawing. Having made sure that the layout is correct, we weld all the corners of the frame at several points, then completely weld the joints. Now you need to sand the welds. The inner surface of the frame, where the frame will be attached, must first be primed with an anti-corrosion primer, since later, when the frame is installed, access will be impossible.

Using the same method, we weld the frame and also clean and prime it, only on the outside.

Connecting the frame to the frame

First, let's decide how the gate leaf will be sewn up - only from the front or from both sides. If only on the front side, the frame should be welded flush with the front side of the frame; when on both sides, then in the middle. Let's take the option from both sides. We measure the distance and make marks inside the frame where the frame should be located. Inside the frame, which lies horizontally, we lay the finished frame in the middle of the frame, adjusting it according to the marks with backings made from pieces of a wooden block. We adjusted it, checked it, now we need to connect the frame to the frame with welding points around the perimeter in increments of about 45–60 cm, so that the frame and frame do not move. We weld crosswise in sections of 1 cm until the step between them is 15–16 cm, and only then we weld the joints completely. Now let's weld the guide rails from the hardware kit to the bottom of the frame. We will weld it in the same way as the frame to the frame.

Painting

Next you need to prepare the frame for painting. First, we clean all welding seams with a grinder to an acceptable appearance. We degrease the entire frame and prime it with an anti-corrosion primer. After the primer layer has dried, you can begin painting. For painting it is better to use alkyd enamels, but acrylic paints are also quite suitable. You can paint with a spray gun, brush or small roller. Painting is done in 2 layers, applying the next layer after the previous one has dried.

Sheathing

You can start sewing the door leaf. We fasten the profile sheet, cut to size, using self-tapping screws with a drill or rivets. First, we fix the sheet at the corners, and then screw it along the perimeter and along the internal frame in increments of 15–20 cm.

Foundation

You can start pouring the foundation. We dig a hole with a length of at least half of the gate opening, in our case at least 2 m, a width of 0.5 m and a depth of 0.7–1 m. We begin to prepare the mortgage - there is nothing complicated here. This is what the finished mortgage looks like:

We place the mortgage in the hole and check with a level that the channel is in a horizontal plane and at the same level with the yard area, this way we will provide a level base for the carriages. Mix the concrete with a concrete mixer in the proportions: 1 part cement, 2.1 sand, 3.9 crushed stone. The resulting concrete grade is M250. We fill the hole completely, not forgetting to often pierce the concrete with a piece of reinforcement or a wooden lath for better penetration and filling of voids. The foundation must stand for at least 10 days, and the complete period for drying and gaining strength by concrete is 28 days. The next day and for the next 3-4 days, it is necessary to water the foundation to avoid cracking of the concrete.

Installation

The foundation is prepared - installation can begin. On the mortgage we place 2 carriages at the maximum distance from each other. We position the gates on carriages, inserting them into the guide rail. Now you need to adjust the carriages. The one closest to the opening is placed so that when the gate is fully opened, its edge does not reach 15–20 cm from the carriage. The other carriage is placed so that when the gate is completely closed, its edge does not reach the carriage by 5 cm. We check the installation with a level and secure it by welding. When we have checked that the entire structure is correct, we weld the joint between the carriage and the mortgage completely.

The next steps are to fasten the remaining parts. The upper guard rollers are attached to the mortgage in the column, if it is provided; when there is no mortgage, you need to first fasten the metal plate to the anchor bolts, it will act as a mortgage. The upper rollers are usually welded to the mortgage.

You can weld a piece of 30*20 pipe on top of a 60*30 pipe and weld the upper rollers to it. In this way we will get a more reliable fastening.

On the opposite post we attach a section of profile pipe 30*20 with a length equal to the height of the gate leaf to the mortgages, and the upper and lower catchers directly to the pipe. We attach the lower catcher 5 mm higher than the end roller is located, so that when it hits the catcher, the gate rises, thus partially removing the load from the carriages.

The upper catcher is attached to the pipe 5–7 cm below the top of the gate to protect against fluctuations in the wind.

The guide is closed on one side and the other with rubber plugs that come with the fittings.

Automatic gate opening

For ease of use, you can make an automatic gate opener; nowadays the market offers a large selection of such drives, and choosing something for yourself with a good price-quality balance will not be difficult. It is best to entrust the installation of the drive to a specialist in this matter, although you can figure it out yourself, since the drive comes with detailed instructions for connecting the motor itself, sensors and mounting the rack.

The power of the purchased drive depending on the weight of the sliding gate can be seen in the table:

Table: dependence of motor power on gate weight

But it’s still better to buy a drive with a power reserve.

Ready-made sliding gates with automation:

Video: DIY sliding gates

It is no secret that sliding gates designed and assembled independently will cost much less than those ordered from a company producing and installing such gates. We control the quality of workmanship ourselves, so you can check everything down to the millimeter, thereby producing a high-quality product for your own use.

Sliding gates are in the same demand as standard swing gates. If you don’t think about installing such doors in the local area, it is only because they have a relatively complex assembly. However, this is not a reason to refuse gates that move out of the way when necessary. They can be built by any man who understands the design, makes the correct calculations and is ready to strictly follow the manufacturing instructions.

Design and principle of operation of sliding gates

The basis of the sliding gate design is a frame that changes its location in space thanks to special trolleys, which are also called cantilever blocks. Equipped with these elements, the gate frame can roll away both to the left and to the right.

The channel to which the sliding gate will be attached must be correctly installed

The trolleys are mounted on a concrete base, created at the beginning of work on the construction of the door structure mechanism, mounted to the side of the driveway. The sliding gate leaf moves along a rail, that is, a narrow steel beam attached by a welding machine under the frame. The rail acts as a guide and supports the weight of the entire structure.

Principle of operation

Automatic opening and closing of sliding gates is ensured by rollers fixed on a swinging base. These structural elements are arranged in pairs, and each of them must be higher than the previously installed one.

In order for the automation to operate correctly, the gate needs a counterweight.

In general, the main elements of sliding gates responsible for changing the position of the door leaf are considered:

• several cantilever blocks that distribute the weight of the structure;
• guide rail;
• end roller, consisting of a platform and a base and guaranteeing smooth entry of the door leaf into the catcher;
• upper bracket (supporting), eliminating deviations and falls of the sliding structure;
• end roller catcher mounted on a holder located near the pole.

With the help of end rollers, the door leaf moves along the rail

Preparation for construction: drawings, sketches, dimensions

Drawing sliding gates on paper, indicating the dimensions, should be done after making calculations. To do this you need to complete the following tasks:

• determine the width of the future gate using the formula L=A+I+(a+b+c+d), where L denotes the width of the structure, A - the width of the passage, I - the distance between the carriages, dimensions a, b, c, d - technological indents ;
• decide what height the gate will be;
• find out what the counterweight should be to balance the sash when moving, taking into account that the minimum permissible length of the load is 40% of the width of the opening;
• calculate the weight of the structure, which is affected by the material used (for example, a square meter of steel sheet 2 mm thick weighs 17 kg);
• Based on the weight of the gate leaf, set the dimensions of the components and the supporting beam, for example, for a structure weighing 300 kg you need a beam about 4 mm thick with ribs 9x5 cm;
• find out how durable the components should be, that is, take into account the frequency of use of the gate and the strength of the wind.

Before choosing a roller mechanism, you should familiarize yourself with some tips. For sliding gates made of corrugated sheets installed in a 4 m opening, it is best to take reinforced roller supports up to 350 kg. If you plan to install a gate in a 7 m opening and cover the structure with wood or forged elements, then it is more advisable to purchase kits up to 800 kg.

The roller mechanism must withstand sashes that have considerable weight

Drawing up drawings

After making the calculations, you can begin drawing up drawings. The diagrams are required to indicate the main dimensions of sliding gates, that is, the height and width of the structure, the length of the opening and the guide beam. It is recommended to supplement the drawings with a frame welding diagram.

The dimensions of the structure must be indicated in the drawing.

Selection of construction raw materials and components for gates

Before you start manufacturing sliding gates, you need to make the right choice of material and components.

Material selection

The choice of material for creating the frame and sash can be difficult. It is more reasonable to make the skeleton of the structure from profile pipes or wooden blocks, and for the gate leaves the following building materials should be used:

• wall corrugated sheeting, which weighs little, is easy to install, does not deteriorate due to mechanical stress and looks aesthetically pleasing;
• sheets of metal, which are heavy and therefore require special skills during installation, but guarantee high structural strength;
• wood, the main differences of which are its attractive appearance and rapid deterioration in the absence of proper care (mandatory treatment with protective agents is required);
• forged elements that make the gate a real work of art, but require serious investment.

Wall corrugated sheeting is lightweight and therefore easy to install

When deciding to build sliding gates from wood, forged elements or sheet metal, you must keep in mind that these materials are heavy, which means you will have to use reinforced fittings and components.

Accessories

To make a door structure you will need the following parts:

• supporting profile;
• supports for rollers and carriages;
• support rollers that will limit vibrations;
• upper and lower catchers;
• roller acting as a support;
• guide plugs.

When choosing components, you should proceed from the size and weight of the gate

When choosing fittings in a store, you should proceed from the parameters of the opening and the weight of the canvas that will be hung on the frame. In addition to the standard set of components, it is recommended to purchase adjusting plates that can eliminate minor errors in calculations without damaging the entire structure.

Material calculation and tool preparation

Typically, the opening for the gate is 4 m, and when making the door leaf, profiled sheets are used, so before starting construction work you need to prepare the following:

• embedded channel 40 cm wide and ½ the width of the gate;
• 15 m of iron rods (reinforcement);
• 10 m 2 wall corrugated sheeting;
• profile pipe measuring 60×60 mm and a length of at least 5 m or bricks (for pillars);
• pipe 60×30 mm, length 20 m;
• pipe 40×20 mm, length 20 m;
• liquid concrete M250 with the addition of crushed stone;
• sand;
• coloring emulsion, primer and solvent (one can each);
• packaging of electrodes;
• bracket;
• 200 pieces of rivets and anchors with studs or a set of self-tapping screws (if the posts are metal).

Required Tools

When working with the listed materials, you will need some tools:

• grinding machine with a disc for cutting metal products;
• welding machine;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• concrete mixer (for constant mixing of liquid concrete);
• shovel;
• axe;
• hammer;
• building level, plastic tape divided into centimeters and a plumb line.

Step-by-step instructions for making gates

Before you start building sliding gates, you need to decide whether to build new posts or leave the old ones. The second option is possible if the supports are made of brick or reinforced concrete blocks with a cross-section of 20x20 mm. You can also avoid dismantling old poles when profile metal pipes with a cross-section of 60×40 mm are securely fixed in the ground. Otherwise, new supporting structures, such as brick ones, should be erected.

Construction of mechanical structure

Manufacturing of sliding gates is carried out in stages:

1. First of all, the pillars are erected by completing two brickworks. On each brick support, 3 steel plates measuring 100x100 mm and 5 mm thick are fixed. The top plate is placed on the inside of the post, joining the edge that is located next to the opening. In this case, 20 cm are retreated from the upper edge of the support. The lower plate is fixed according to the same scheme, and the middle one - in the central zone of the pillar.

   Instead of brick ones, you can install metal pillars

2. At the level of the zero marks, that is, at the boundary of the surface at the entrance to the opening, pull the cord, drawing it close to the back side of the pillars and 2 meters further from them. The horizontality of the stretched material must be checked.
3. In the ground adjacent to the support pillars, dig a hole 50 cm wide and at least one and a half meters deep. To reinforce the foundation and ensure its connection with the sliding gate channel, 3 frames with a square cross-section (140 cm long) are welded. The manufactured frames are welded from the bottom of the channel, in the middle of its flange. In this case, the axes of the outer skeletons are located at a distance of 40 cm from the edges of the profile, which will be located in the concrete base.
4. Ten centimeters of the hole are covered with sand and covered with polyethylene film. The made “pillow” is compacted, after which a channel with reinforcement skeletons is placed on it. This part is positioned, docking with the supporting pillar parallel to the line of movement of the gate.
5. The structure exposed in the pit is poured with concrete gradually, from time to time making holes in the liquid concrete that will allow air bubbles to escape. The top layer of the mixture is smoothed, and the surface of the channel is wiped with a damp cloth. Further work on the foundation is carried out after the concrete has completely hardened, after one or two weeks.

   When working with concrete, it must be constantly stirred so that it does not harden.

6. A pipe with a cross-section of 60x30 mm is divided into sections to create a gate frame. Stiffening ribs and diagonals made from a pipe with a size of 40x20 mm are attached to it. It will be easier to weld parts if you make an assembly table - a structure made of three stands of the same height and boards. Before welding work, carried out on a special platform, all pipes are cleaned of traces of corrosion using a grinding machine. The seams created by welding are smoothed with a grinder, and the protruding ends of the pipes are sealed with plugs.

   Assembling the gate frame on the assembly table will make a difficult task easier

7. A guide beam is welded to the lower zone of the finished gate frame. First, this part is attached only with clamps to check whether the axles and beams of the structure are in the correct position. After this, welding is used, making seams of 40 mm.
8. The frame of the gate is placed vertically and coated with a primer that protects the metal from corrosion. After the first layer, a second layer of the product is applied to the product. The dried anti-corrosion compound is covered with two layers of paint. The emulsion is not applied only to the back side of the load-bearing beam.

   Using a sprayer, the paint is applied evenly

9. A sheet of corrugated sheeting is attached to the metal frame of the gate. For this, fasteners are used.

Installation of sliding gates

Installing a door structure requires the following steps:

At this stage, you need to check how the gate “moves” and see whether the vertical and horizontal structure of the structure is maintained when closed. Gate correction is carried out using adjusting nuts on the studs. If no problems are found, then the fasteners need to be tightened.

After inspecting the gate, you can begin further installation work:

Video: budget option for sliding gates

Typically, sliding gates are preferably finished with wood materials. In this case, only construction raw materials are used, the quality of which is beyond doubt. The wooden covering of the gate must be resistant to mechanical stress, otherwise it will quickly become cracked and lose its shape.

Door structures with wood cladding are a winning option, but require high costs.

The wood used for cladding the gate must be resistant to mechanical stress

If it is not possible to invest considerable funds in the construction of sliding gates, then you should think about finishing them with plastisol. True, using this material, a door structure on the territory of a private house will not look respectable. Still, plastisol looks like a smooth or corrugated sheet coated with polyester. But this construction raw material is durable and therefore often used in the construction of parking lots.

Gates made of plastisol are durable and practical

When you don’t like either wood or plastisol, you can try finishing sliding gates with sandwich panels or corrugated sheets. And the original cladding of the door structure will be clapboard cladding. Thanks to this material, the gate will become reliable and last a long time.

When installing sliding gates, you should take care of the safety of their use. The operation of such a door structure requires adherence to the following rules:

• do not create obstacles to the movement of the gate;
• visually control the opening and closing of the structure;
• do not stand in the area of ​​movement of the sash;
• refuse to use the gate if the control devices are damaged;
• do not try to remake the gate design yourself;
• Do not use the gate as a means to move any objects.

Building sliding gates is not as problematic as it might seem. To put a complex door structure into operation, you need to thoroughly study it and follow all points of the instructions for manufacturing the object.

Making retractable gates with your own hands is somewhat more complicated and more expensive than traditional swing gates, but the ease of use of such a design overcomes all temporary difficulties. Sliding gates do not require free space in front of them to open, do not limit the opening in height, are insensitive to weather conditions and are easy to automate.

Tools and materials

To manufacture and install retractable gates, you need to stock up on everything you need.

List of tools:

• shovels;
• roulette;
• cord;
• level;
• square;
• marker;
• Bulgarian;
• welding machine;
• drill;
• brushes

List of materials:

• reinforcing bars with a diameter of 12-16 mm;
• knitting wire;
• channel with neck 140-160 mm;
• concrete B20;
• profile pipe 60x30x2 mm;
• profile pipe 40x20x2 mm;
• welding electrodes 2.5-3 mm;
• primer for metal;
• enamel;
• solvent;
• wall corrugated sheeting;
• roofing screws;
• fittings for sliding gates.

To ensure compatibility of elements, it is advisable to purchase fittings as a set in one standard size; the elements are selected according to their load-bearing capacity depending on the width of the opening. In general, you will need:

• lower roller bearings (2 pcs.);
• adjustment pads (2 pcs.);
• guide;
• upper roller support;
• lower and upper catchers;
• end roller;
• guide plug.

The work will be simplified if you use a laser plane builder, but you can do without it.

Marking and foundation arrangement

If the gate opening is unknown in advance and can be chosen, it is worth starting from the following considerations:

1. The width of the truck including mirrors does not exceed 2.75 m.
2. When straight entry is not possible and maneuvering is required, the width must be increased.

Therefore, for direct passage of any vehicle, an opening width of 3 m is sufficient. For passage with a turn, the opening width can be increased to 4 m. A larger width is less advantageous in terms of materials. This is due to the fact that the profile pipe is sold in 6 m pieces, and for fitting kits the opening width of 4 m is the limit.

Larger sizes require a more durable and expensive set of accessories. In addition, it will be difficult to make wider gates with your own hands. If a gate is placed next to the gate, it should not be on the side where it moves away.

The advantage of sliding gates is that there are no elements in the opening in the open position. But to attach the sash you have to use a protruding console. Therefore, to roll back the gate, a space is required that is 1.5 times the width of the opening. The wide canvas with cantilever is kept from tipping over by a massive counterweight foundation.

The foundation is placed on the side where the gate will slide. It is placed along the fence close to the edge of the opening and the limiting post. The width of the base is selected at 500 mm. The length should be half the width of the opening. The depth depends on the region. It cannot be less than the freezing depth for a given area. It is better to take a depth with a margin of 20-30 cm.

An embed the full length of the foundation is prepared from a section of channel and reinforcing bars. The channel will be placed in the concrete with the shelves down. Vertical rods are welded to the inner surface of the shelves. They are connected to each other through 30-40 cm with additional scraps of reinforcement.

If the gate is equipped with an automated drive, to install it, an additional platform from a cut channel is welded to the mortgage.

It is located on the side of the main support platform closer to the opening. A hole is made in the cutting of the channel for the passage of communications. The wires are laid inside the foundation in steel pipes.

The resulting mortgage must be aligned relative to the axis of movement of the gate and the lower end of the leaf. The position of the axis can be determined by stretching a cord along the opening. It is pulled from the supporting pillars at a distance equal to half the width of the mortgage, at the height of the lower edge of the sash. The height must be chosen so that animals cannot enter the territory, but the formation of ice in winter does not prevent opening.

The mortgage should be located along the axis of the cord, but below it. The required gap can be measured by screwing the roller support to the adjustment platform and setting it to the middle height position. Then the distance from the roller to the supporting surface of the adjustment pad will be the distance from the cord to the embedment mark.

The mortgage is secured in the pit. If its upper plane is higher than the ground level, you will have to extend the edges of the pit with formwork. Concrete is poured flush with the mortgage.

The material of the posts is important for installing the top support and catchers. They are simply welded to metal ones or mounted on a bolted connection. In the case of brick or concrete pillars, you have to install mortgages or take them into a cage.

An option is also used when sliding gates are installed together with additional steel supports made of large-section profile pipe (100x100 mm). Then one pillar is concreted together with the foundation, and a personal foundation is made for the second.

Making the sash

To make a gate leaf with your own hands, you need to have welding skills. The design is openwork and can easily move when welding. It is advisable to prepare a site with control points set exactly at the same mark in strategic places. It is better to be able to fix the workpiece to these points.

The gate console is usually made in the form of a right triangle, which continues the main rectangular part. This scheme allows you to save some materials and lighten the design. The canvas itself is made 400 mm wider than the opening. The total length with the console is 1.5 times the width of the opening.

The outer part of the perimeter of the structure is made from a 60x30x2 mm profile pipe, the inner part is made from a 40x20x2 mm pipe. The more massive element is located flat in the cross-section, the smaller one is located vertically.

Jib beams are welded inside the structure from a 40x20x2 mm pipe, forming a rigid frame similar to a truss. A guide for roller bearings is welded to the bottom end.

The longitudinal connection of the elements is made with an intermittent seam in increments of 20 cm. You need to cook from the middle to the edges, alternately on one side and the other. This will minimize thermal distortion.

The metal is cleaned of oxides, primed in two layers and painted with enamel paints.

Installation and adjustment of the structure

Adjustment pads are placed on the foundation along the very edges of the mortgage and along the axis of the cord. In this position they are caught by welding at several points. The support rollers are screwed to the adjustment pads in the middle position. The lattice structure must be pushed through one of the free ends onto the rollers.

Using the adjustment pads, the sash guide is aligned to the horizon at the desired height and parallel to the plane of the opening. The upper support roller is placed on the gate and its position is marked on the pillar closest to the foundation. After checking that the gate is installed correctly, the leaf is removed. The support platforms are scalded and the upper support is mounted.

Using the upper support roller, the sash is aligned in a vertical plane. The location of the catchers is determined after covering the canvas with corrugated sheets, when it acquires its final mass. The corrugated sheet is attached using a drill with roofing screws. The sheathing looks neater if you start it from the edge farthest from the support. A whole sheet appears in plain sight.

An end roller and a plug are installed at the ends of the guide. The end roller must be attached with special care. It bears a significant part of the load when the gate is closed. The lower catcher is pressed tightly against the end roller by hand and welded in this position. The second catcher is fixed in the upper corner.

A properly made gate rolls easily in any direction. When placing the sash in one of the intermediate positions, it should not move under its own weight. The wind load is completely transferred to the supports and catchers, which allows the gate to serve for a long time and require no maintenance.

Recently, when every wealthy citizen wants to acquire his own private house or cottage, he is faced with the question of building a fence and, as a result, a gate suitable for it.

Sliding and sliding gates are very popular in this regard due to their obvious practicality; They are also often used in industrial facilities.

With the increase in demand, the number of manufacturers producing both finished gates and their components, offering installation by qualified workers, has also increased.

Types of sliding gates

Gates are divided into several types, and each has its own design, which has its own pros and cons.

Hanging gates

Most often they are used at the entrances of industrial facilities and other areas intended for a not too wide range of people. This type of gate is very reliable, but its production requires a lot of materials and, as a result, finances.

However, for those who value quality above all, they will be to their taste: hanging gates can work even fifty years after installation.

Among the obvious disadvantages, in addition to the price, it is worth noting that the gate opening is quite limited due to the upper beam.

Sliding gates on rails

In theory, the most reliable and at the same time the most primitive gate design. The gate opens like a compartment door, sliding on rollers along a specialized rail that is located on the ground.

Despite all the ease of use, in the climate of our country problems may arise with this type of gate; weather conditions such as snow or falling leaves can block the movement of these gates by closing the rail, making them impossible to open and difficult to return to functionality.

This design will find greatest application in places where the area is subject to timely cleaning, for example, in private courtyards. Also, even when open, such gates do not take up extra space, which obviously gives them an advantage in places with limited space.

Console gates

The design of this type of gate is similar to sliding gates on a rail, but differs in that the gate has no contact with the ground rail. This is the most complex design, however, this gives it its advantages: weather conditions do not affect the operation of the gate, and they also leave a lot of free space, negating the risk of damage to the vehicle entering them.

Thanks to the convenient arrangement of the rolling elements, which directly ensure the operation of the gate, cantilever gates are independent of nature, which allows them to have increased strength.

The gate movement is very simple thanks to the well-designed design and reduced friction. The disadvantages include the complex installation and the need for a larger fence area than the size of the opening.

When can sliding gates be installed?

To install the desired type of sliding gate, sometimes a great desire and budget are not enough; The success of the installation largely depends on the type of site on which the gate is going to be located.

In some situations, installing a gate is either completely impossible or very complicated.

For example, the problem with space is always very acute. With a short fence, you can’t even dream of a gate, since the space into which the gate will roll back must be unobstructed by at least the width of the opening, multiplied by one and a half.

The reason for this is that in addition to the gate itself, its technological part also takes up a lot of space.

Note!

In addition, the fence must be straight, since the gate moves in a straight path. Yes, a very obvious fact, but many consumers forget to take it into account. There should also be no uneven terrain where the gate opens.

How to install sliding gates

Installing and making gates with your own hands without experience in this matter can be very difficult, but possible. After familiarizing yourself with photographs of sliding gates, constructing detailed plans and drawings and diagrams of sliding gates, you can begin installation.

First of all, you should evaluate the future location of the gate. Assess the condition of the support posts and make sure they are strong enough to install the gate.

Make sure it is possible to locate a hole near a foundation pillar with dimensions of 500x2000mm

Decide on the type of door leaf and its facing material; this is important because the mass of the gate depends on this, and the choice of power elements depends on it.

Draw up detailed drawings of the gates, taking into account the characteristics of the area where the installation will be carried out, and purchase components.

Note!

Carry out marking work. Select the zero level.

Proceed with installation of the gate foundation. When using an electric drive in the selected type of gate, at this stage you should pay attention in advance to laying the necessary cables.

Make a sliding gate leaf. It is very important to pay great attention to the sizes. Purchase the necessary fittings for sliding gates (roller supports, rollers, caps for the beam, etc.)

Carry out installation and installation of the structure, having first waited no less than seven days after the completion of concreting.

DIY sliding gate photo

Note!

Swing gates are good for everyone: simple and cheap. But in winter, with a large amount of snow, they can only be opened by thoroughly working with a shovel. When you need to go to work, this is not at all pleasing. Sliding or, as they say, sliding/sliding gates do not have this drawback. A solid structure covering the entire entrance moves to the side, hiding behind the fence. They can be supported on a regular or cantilever beam, or they can simply ride on rails. In any case, you can make sliding gates with your own hands. It's not entirely easy, but it's possible.

Constructions

Which ones are better

It’s hard to say which design is better. If we talk about reliability, then the best choice is a suspended structure. Everything is easy and reliable, an almost indestructible system. Gates of this type have been used in enterprises for decades. Their disadvantage is that the beam limits the height of incoming vehicles, which is sometimes important. But today there are models with composite beams, which allow you to remove the lintel above the entrance when the gate is open, and then return it to its place.

The cheapest and easiest to implement is a rail system. These sliding gates are the easiest to assemble with your own hands. But problems arising during operation make it unpopular.

Of all the above structures, the most expensive and difficult to implement is the cantilever one, however, it is the one that is installed most often: if done correctly, it does not cause inconvenience during operation. When choosing, you need to keep in mind that when installing it on the right or left of the gate, a distance is required that is one and a half times greater than the width of the leaf: in addition to the leaf itself, there is also a technical part that protrudes from the side by about half the length.

The types of sliding gates, design features and construction are discussed in detail in the video.

How to make cantilever sliding gates

This design is good because there are no beams above the passage. But it is the most expensive in the device. The point is not so much in the roller system, but in the need to construct a foundation with metal mortgages, to which the cantilever beam will then be attached. If there are already pillars, the foundation is poured in front of it and along the fence to the length of the technical extension, which is necessary to compensate for the load created by the canvas.

Even if you make cantilever sliding gates yourself, a set consisting of a guide beam, rollers, end rollers and catchers is usually purchased from a company. All spare parts are calculated based on the size of the canvas, frame material and type of cladding: weight is essential. Therefore, it is advisable to decide on all these parameters in advance.

Knowing the length of the supporting beam, you can calculate the required size of the foundation. The type is a strip foundation; a foundation pit is dug below the freezing depth of the soil (it is different for each region), into which reinforced supports are laid under plates with rollers, and racks are also installed. A set of upper rollers is then attached to these posts, holding the canvas and preventing it from swinging.

How to calculate the foundation for mounting a cantilever beam

There is nothing complicated in the calculation. The length of the foundation is almost half the length of the span. If the span is 4 meters (the width of the passage or the distance between the pillars), then the foundation should be 1.8-2 m. Its width is 40-50 cm, its depth is below the freezing depth of the soil for the region.

The pit is dug another 10-15 cm deeper - under a gravel-sand cushion. This foundation is reinforced (according to the type), in its upper part a channel (18 or 20) is welded to the reinforcement and the whole thing is poured with concrete. The channel is set to the “zero” level, that is, it must be level with the ground level or the material with which the yard is finished.

There is a cheaper and faster option, but in terms of reliability it is inferior to the one described above. Three metal screw piles are screwed into the ground, and a channel is welded to them.

Installation of roller bearings

Studs are welded to the embedded channel, and platforms with rollers are then bolted to them. Sometimes you can find options when the platforms are welded directly to the mortgage. It is not right. There is a fairly high probability that the foundation or fence post will shrink. Even a slight shift and your gate will not work. If the rollers can be removed from the studs, the studs can be welded and everything can be put back in place, then how to correct it if the platform is welded? Cutting down? Difficult, long, without guarantees. So in this case it is better to do everything according to the rules.

When purchasing, pay attention to the roller carriages and the rollers themselves. These are necessarily sealed rolling bearings. They are usually arranged in two rows of 4 pieces each. The lubricant in them must be frost-resistant - the lower temperature limit is -60°C. Inspect the platform on which they are mounted. It must be steel, cast, good metal with a galvanized surface, coated with a protective lubricant.

Roller skate. Everything should ride effortlessly and should not have any play (should not wobble from side to side). Then you can be sure that the gate will move easily and the sliding mechanism will work for a long time (some companies give a 10-year guarantee). After all, most of the load falls on the rollers, so their quality is key, as is the balanced design of the blade.

The remaining stages of installation will be more clearly described in the photo report: the gates were assembled independently, without the involvement of specialists.

DIY sliding gates: photo report with explanations

These gates are made on the basis of a ready-made kit; they made the frame themselves and installed it themselves

The gates were installed in Moscow, and accordingly the prices were in the capital. They were installed in 2010, since then the kits have become much cheaper. For example, the “fresh” price of a drive for a blade weighing no more than 400 kg (there are up to 1.2 tons) is about $100, but this is a budget option. During construction, components from Rolling Center (the best on the market at that time) were purchased with a 6-meter long drive beam. The upper catcher and bracket were also ordered separately. Everything with delivery cost about $600.

The following materials were also purchased:

• profile pipe 80*60 mm - 6 m, 60*40 mm - 18 m, 40*20 mm - 36 m;
• channel - 180 mm - 3 meters, 200 mm - 2.4 meters;
• reinforcement 12 mm - 6 m;
• electrodes - 2 kg;
• paint - 3 cans, brushes, rivets;
• cement M-400 - 5 bags;

The first step was to weld the frame for the gate with a counterweight. The frame (black) was made from a 60*40 mm profile pipe, the lintels and internal frame (lilac) were made from a 40*20 mm pipe. A guide beam is welded at the bottom with the cut down.

The inner frame was welded with an indentation from the edge - 20 mm on each side. This makes it more convenient to attach the corrugated sheet later; if desired, you can also sheathe it from the inside.

First the foundation was poured. Reinforcement was installed in it, with a channel on top with the back facing up. Close to the channel there are two racks made of profiled pipe 80*60 mm. One post is adjacent to the post, the second is set vertically at a distance of 120 cm. Rollers are then hung on them, which hold the canvas from above. On the other hand, a 180 mm channel was installed along the return post.

On the counter part, catchers are attached to the channel at the top and bottom, which will prevent the gate from dangling in the wind.

The next step is to install the roller plates. They are attached to mortgages. In this case it is a channel, so the space turned out to be large. When the foundation was made, it was made too high, so the plates were welded directly to the mortgage. This is impractical: if the roller breaks, changing it will be problematic. Usually a platform is welded, to which a platform with rollers is then bolted.

The roller platforms were welded and the rollers “ran over” them

The finished gate frame is simply rolled onto fixed rollers.

After installation, plugs are placed on both ends of the support beam. On the far side, a thrust wheel is installed, which in the closed position drives into the lower catcher, lifting the gate and removing the load from the rollers.

Now, to prevent the gate from “walking” in the upper part (they are currently not secured by anything), sets of upper rollers are attached to the posts (80*60 mm) - one per post. They are practically put on the frame. Now the rollers inside will hold it up.

That's it, the sliding gates are assembled with your own hands and ready for use.

What sliding gates look like from the yard

If you have any questions, watch the video. It assembles a ready-made kit, the whole process will become clearer.

Video

Several videos with different designs of sliding gates. The first is cantilever on the middle beam. There will be no problems with snow, but the appearance from the yard is below average.

Economy option: sliding gates for a summer residence. The design is extremely simple.

Another homemade option. Here the pipe is 60*60 mm, there is a gap cut into it, into which the rollers are inserted. The design is standard and assembled from various components.